鸡公艾尔

鸡公艾尔（英語：cock ale）是一种在17至18世纪流行于英国的艾尔啤酒，要制作这种啤酒，需要将装满了去皮去肚的半熟公鸡及各种水果香料的袋子，浸泡入普通艾尔啤酒的酿酒桶中。

配方[编辑]

《牛津英语词典》将“Cock ale”描述为“除其余成分外，还与煮熟的公鸡肉冻或肉糜混合的艾尔啤酒”，^[1]并将该饮品追溯至17世纪中期。在凯内尔姆·迪格比（英语：Kenelm Digby）的《橱柜揭秘》（Closet Opened，1669年）一书中，将其制作过程介绍为：

取八加仑艾尔酒；取一只公鸡煮熟；然后取四磅去核自然风干的葡萄干、两三个肉豆蔻、三四片肉豆蔻皮、半磅海枣；用臼舂碎，再取两夸脱最好的白葡萄酒；放入酿造好的艾尔酒中，将其封存六七天后装瓶，一月后即可饮用。^[2]

1739年的《完美家庭主妇（英语：The Compleat Housewife）》介绍了相似的配方：

取十加仑艾尔酒和一只大公鸡，越老越好；把公鸡煮熟，去皮，在石臼捣至骨碎（去皮时应一并去除内脏）；然后将公鸡放进两夸脱的麻袋里，放入三磅晒干的葡萄干、一些肉豆蔻皮和少许丁香。将之装入帆布袋中。在艾尔酒即将酿造完成时，把艾尔酒和袋子一并装入容器中；等上一周至九天后灌装入瓶；让酒刚好没过瓶颈，并按其他艾尔酒的时长等待熟成。^[3]

托马斯·富勒（英语：Thomas Fuller (writer)）的《即兴药典》（Pharmacopœia extemporanea，1710年）里提供了肺痨艾尔（Pectoral Ale，咳嗽药）的配方，如果加上煮熟的鸡，显然可以变成鸡公艾尔。富勒解释说，这种饮料“能使血液和体液中的酸性物质变甜，激活粘稠的痰液，促进排痰，焕发肺部活力，提供温和的营养，对于治疗恶化前的肺痨也非常有益。”^[4]约翰·诺特（John Nott）的《厨师和糖果师词典》（Cooks and Confectioner's Dictionary，1723年）中也宣传了这种饮料的所谓药用价值，该词典声称鸡公艾尔“对肺痨有好处，并有化腐为奇之效”。^[5]

描述[编辑]

一位当代传记作者声称，威廉三世国王更喜欢鸡公艾尔而不是葡萄酒。^[6]在罗伯特·纳雷斯（英语：Robert Nares）的《词汇表》（Glossary）中，这种饮料被描述为“一种在17世纪因其卓越品质而非常有名的艾尔酒”^[7]。该词条还引用了奈德·沃德（英语：Ned Ward）在《伦敦间谍（英语：The London Spy）》中的一段话，其中称鸡公艾尔是“小啤酒和糖浆的混合物”，不过作者还补充说，“我说，如果这是鸡公艾尔，那就让鸡头喝吧。”^[8]内森·贝利（Nathan Bailey）的《大英词典》（Dictionarium britannicum，1736年）将其描述为一种“令人愉快的饮料，据说具有挑逗性”，^[9]弗朗西斯·格罗斯（英语：Francis Grose）的《俗语经典词典》（Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue，1785年）也反映了这种观点，称其具有挑逗性。^[10]威廉·亨利·纽金特（William Henry Nugent）在1929年时声称，鸡公艾尔是面包和艾尔酒的混合物，是斗鸡的食物。^[11]

有几位作者推断，“Cock ale”可能已经讹变为了“cocktail”（鸡尾酒），这是一个在1806年首次使用的美国词，其来源现已失传。^[12]^[13]^[14]

参考文献[编辑]

脚注

^ cock-ale, n. Second, oed.com, June 2011 [1891]
^ Digby 2007，第99頁原文：Take eight Gallons of Ale; take a Cock and boil him well; then take four pounds of Raisins of the Sun well stoned, two or three Nutmegs, three or four flakes of Mace, half a pound of Dates; beat these all in a Mortar, and put to them two quarts of the best Sack; and when the Ale hath done working, put these in, and stop it close six or seven days, and then bottle it, and a month after you may drink it.
^ Smith 1739，第222–223頁原文：Take ten gallons of ale, and a large cock, the older the better; parboil the cock, flay him, and stamp him in a stone mortar till his bones are broken (you must craw and gut him when you flay him); then put the cock into two quarts of sack, and put it to three pounds of raisins of the sun stoned, some blades of mace, and a few cloves; put all these into a canvas bag, and a little before you find the ale has done working, put the ale and bag together into a vessel; in a week or nine days time bottle it up; fill the bottle but just above the neck, and give the same time to ripen as other ale.
^ Pectoral Ale, pascalbonenfant.com, [2011-06-18], （原始内容存档于2011-10-07）, sweetens the Acrimony of the blood and humours, incites clammy phlegm, facilitates expectoration, invigorates the lungs, supplies soft nourishment, and is very profitable even in a consumption itself, if not too far gone.
^ Nott 1723 原文：good against a Consumption, and to restore a decay'd Nature.
^ Anon 1703
^ 原文：a sort of ale which was very celebrated in the seventeenth century for its superior quality.
^ Nares 1859 原文：if this be cock-ale, said I, e'en let cocks-combs drink it.
^ Bailey 1736
^ Grose 1785
^ Nugent 1929
^ cocktail, n. and adj. Third, oed.com, June 2011 [2005] [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2022-03-19）
^ Chrysti 2004
^ Powers 1998

传记

Anon, The Life of William III, Fleet Street, London: S and J Sprint, J Nicholson, 1703 [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2021-09-01）
Bailey, Nathan, Dictionarium Britannicum, Royal Exchange, London: T Cox, 1736 [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2021-09-15）
Chrysti, Verbivore's feast: a banquet of word & phrase origins, Helena, MT: Farcountry Press, 2004 [2021-09-01], ISBN 1-56037-265-6, （原始内容存档于2020-08-05）
Digby, Kenelm, The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened, Middlesex: Echo Library, 2007, ISBN 978-1-4068-6120-4
Grose, Francis, A Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue, High Holborn, London: S Hooper, 1785 [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2013-06-04）
Nares, Robert, A glossary, London: J R Smith, 1859 [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2021-11-25）
Nott, John, The Cooks and Confectioner's Dictionary, St Pauls, London: C Rivington, 1723 [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2021-09-01）
Nugent, William Henry, Cock Fighting Today, The American mercury 17 (American Mercury), 1929, 17
Powers, Madelon, Faces along the bar: lore and order in the workingman's saloon, 1870-1920, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1998 [2021-09-01], ISBN 0-226-67768-0, （原始内容存档于2019-12-23）
Smith, Eliza, The compleat housewife, Fleet Street, London: J and J Pemberton, 1739 [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2022-06-28）

外部链接[编辑]

Making a seventeenth century cock ale following Digby's recipe （页面存档备份，存于互联网档案馆）; tasting it （页面存档备份，存于互联网档案馆）

[1] -ale, n. Second, oed.com, June 2011 [1891]

[2] Digby 2007，第99頁原文：Take eight Gallons of Ale; take a Cock and boil him well; then take four pounds of Raisins of the Sun well stoned, two or three Nutmegs, three or four flakes of Mace, half a pound of Dates; beat these all in a Mortar, and put to them two quarts of the best Sack; and when the Ale hath done working, put these in, and stop it close six or seven days, and then bottle it, and a month after you may drink it.

[3] Smith 1739，第222–223頁原文：Take ten gallons of ale, and a large cock, the older the better; parboil the cock, flay him, and stamp him in a stone mortar till his bones are broken (you must craw and gut him when you flay him); then put the cock into two quarts of sack, and put it to three pounds of raisins of the sun stoned, some blades of mace, and a few cloves; put all these into a canvas bag, and a little before you find the ale has done working, put the ale and bag together into a vessel; in a week or nine days time bottle it up; fill the bottle but just above the neck, and give the same time to ripen as other ale.

[4] Pectoral Ale, pascalbonenfant.com, [2011-06-18], （原始内容存档于2011-10-07）, sweetens the Acrimony of the blood and humours, incites clammy phlegm, facilitates expectoration, invigorates the lungs, supplies soft nourishment, and is very profitable even in a consumption itself, if not too far gone.

[5] Nott 1723 原文：good against a Consumption, and to restore a decay'd Nature.

[6] Anon 1703

[7] 原文：a sort of ale which was very celebrated in the seventeenth century for its superior quality.

[8] Nares 1859 原文：if this be cock-ale, said I, e'en let cocks-combs drink it.

[9] Bailey 1736

[10] Grose 1785

[11] Nugent 1929

[12] tail, n. and adj. Third, oed.com, June 2011 [2005] [2021-09-01], （原始内容存档于2022-03-19）

[13] Chrysti 2004

[14] Powers 1998

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